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How to Choose Shunted or Non-Shunted Sockets

Shunted Socket

Did you know that using the wrong type of sockets could mean you void the Underwriters Laboratories (UL) listing? As all insurance companies accept the standards for the UL listing, if it is voided your insurance coverage may be voided as well. Using the right socket for your linear fluorescent or LED light fixture ensures you get the maximum life from your lighting. More importantly, the improper socket can lead to an electrical shortage that may cause a fire.

The choice between using shunted or non-shunted sockets depends on the size of the fluorescent tubes and the ballasts. The most accurate way to test for shunted/non-shunted sockets is with a voltage meter. If the meter lights up or beeps, that means the electrical contacts are connected, or shunted. If there is no current, the meter display does not change. The simplest explanation of the difference between shunted and non-shunted sockets follows:

Shunted Sockets: Shunted sockets have an electrical current that joins two points of a circuit with a conductor. They house electrical contacts that are internally connected. The current runs from the ballast to the tombstone socket all the way to the lamp’s pins.

Non-Shunted Sockets: Non-shunted sockets come with individual entry points for the wires. They have two tracks for the electrical current to travel, however, their electrical currents are not internally joined or connected.

Contact the friendly and knowledgeable associates at HH Fluorescent & LED Products to answer your questions. We sell a variety of fluorescent sockets replacement parts and are standing ready to help you find the solution you need.


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